A few days ago I hopped the R train out to Bay Ridge in Brooklyn to
visit Robicelli's Gourmet Market. I've been reading about the place for
months, as it is becoming a legend in the New York cupcake world. Their
creations are unbelievable in their creativity. I was hoping to try an
Iona, an olive oil and pear cake with blue cheese icing and candied
walnuts. OMFG. Unfortunately, they were out of stock.
But I had a great time nonetheless. First I had a gourmet grilled
cheese sandwich. Three kinds of cheese grilled in ciabatta, with a
delicious addition of Berkshire bacon inside. Matt Robicelli, who owns
the place with his wife Allison, sliced the bacon off a full slab and
grilled it before constructing the sandwich. As I've said before, bacon
is the new black, and Matt clearly adheres to that philosophy in his
cooking and baking. In fact, he memorialized it on his forearm:
(That photo is from the excellent blog Porkchop Express which has a detailed profile of the Robicellis and their market - go read it.)
We chatted throughout my meal and I was surprised to learn he was a
St. Paul boy (with family roots in Iowa farming). His dad had been a
tenor with the Minnesota Opera before moving to New York
to seek out fame and fortune. Matt had been an EMT until he was injured
on 9/11 while evacuating people from Tower 7, and after rehab from that
he studied pastry at the French Culinary Institute. After working in a
bunch of New York kitchens he and his wife decided to open the store.
Getting back to bacon...since I struck out on the Iona, I had one
their best-known creations for dessert. That is the Elvis cupcake,
conceived from the King's well-known love of grilled peanut butter and
banana sandwiches. The Elvis is made of banana cake, peanut buttercream
frosting, and crowning touch: carmelized pieces of bacon on top. Yes,
it sounds strange. But oh so good. I would be in trouble if I lived
anywhere near this place.
Matt spins off wild ideas for cupcakes as you talk with him. He has
one in mind now for an upcoming event that I can't wait to see them
accomplish. When we spoke it was just a concept, though: chicken and
waffles. He isn't sure how to realize it yet. An eggy cake, since
waffles are typically eggy, will probably be the start. But the rest
remains to be realized.
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